So. It’s been a week of hot tropical sun, swimming, drinking and eating. Time to get some work done…ugh. Landing in Huatulco was a standard, Mexican gong show. But, over the years we’ve learned and adopted the Mexican, shrugging of the shoulders approach. We just shuffled along, as cattle would, with the other five planes worth of passengers, to greet one of the two custom officials assigned to welcome us.
And, as per normal, we arrive to a heat wave – well into the 30’s. Our driver, nowhere to be found, leaves us no option but to board the local bus with our backpacks. Our half hour journey, hanging on to our packs as we fly through the jungle with a tired, elderly worker asleep on my shoulder, instantly reminds us of what an adventure Mexico can be.
We head to Pochutla, Oaxaca, a place I’ve never heard of, nor had any attention of going to, but had to in order to transfer down to Puerto Angel (pronounced ‘An-Hell’). I am so happy being back in Mexico!
Puerto Angel is not on the average tourist list. As Lonely Planet puts it “…a sleepy, little, seaside Mexican town, a little rough around the edges”. Right up our alley. It is a working town, full of fisherman, a few restaurants, a few hotels – two of which have air conditioning – ours is not one of these.
I love this town. For travellers, its interesting and has the quiet, Mexican lifestyle we all read about.
It has two beaches with calm, clear waters where Mexican families come and play. There’s a few expats and travellers, but very few (like 3) Mexicans that speak English. For Vacationers, its not so great. It’s within a 15 minute taxi ride to the tourist centres of Mazunte and Zipolite, but the streets aren’t those nice ‘cobblestone’ streets with colourful flags waving – more like rocky, holey, uneven, concrete/asphalt/sandy/covered in dog poop kind of streets. You have to look up for fallen wires, down for said dog poop, and side to side for taxis and wonderful locals smiling brilliantly at you, shouting “Buenos Dias!!!”
Our hotel, Hotel Capy, is a wonderful, almost hostel, type of BNB. The family that operates it are just lovely and sweet. Four generations of family live and work here. In the afternoon, they bring out the 50” big screen tv and set it in the dining room for the littlest one to watch after school. Our room is small, with a single window, fan and private bathroom.
There’s no one here, so the deck that sits outside our room with hammock and loungers, is ours to use solely, as opposed to when its busy and the whole floor shares it. It took Danielle and myself 5 days to acclimatize to the humid heat. Dragging all those Spanish words and phrases out of our pea brains was a challenge too – its been two years since our last trip to Mexico. But our breakfast server/room cleaner Lulu helped us with Spanish (she didn’t know a single word of English) and was such a sweetheart.
We arrived in the dark. This is something we generally don’t like to do, and I wouldn’t recommend it. A new town, foreign language…but, we try to embrace adventure, so we set off down the dark street in search for a place to eat. After travelling, we like to hit the beach, but, it’s dark – and very quiet, so,following Alfredo’s advice, we head “downtown”.
All is quiet, except a street vendor – selling “hamburgueses” – yes, hamburgers. But, with smoked bacon, pineapple, and quesa- local cheese, they were fantastico! We picked up some local Mezcal and finished our first night on the deck. Costs? Hotel – $35 a night, food – $4, Mezcal – $8/litre. Experience – priceless!
Thanks for reading…